Purchase & Plant
Pruning & Maintenance
Misc. Yard & Garden

Divide & Plant
Garden How To's

 

To control White Flies, those stubborn, white "webby" pests that stick to the undersides of leaves, use Bayer's Rose & Flower Insect Killer. This product comes highly recommended as an effective exterminator of these "life sucking" pests.

Fertilize & Disease Control
Roses Roses need lots of water now to strengthen the stalks and leaves for new blooms. Continue fertilizing roses this month. See Pat Welsh’s Southern California Gardening Book for details about method options. Feed again on the same date this month that you marked on the calendar last month. Increase watering early in the morning at the root base to up to three times a week, giving them about 1.5 inches of water at a time to keep the leaves dry.

Either wash off aphids with a hose or control them with systemics such as Bayer Rose and Flower Care, Insect Concentrate or Ready-to-Use, which are safer than sprays if roses aren’t near food plants. Find a product with BT to help you control caterpillars. Follow all safety instructions when using any chemicals.

Cymbidiums These Asian orchids need to be kept moist but not soggy. Misting the leaves or using a drip system in interior areas can be beneficial. Watering once or twice a week on the coast should be fine. Until the end of summer keep them in semi-shade then late summer, move them where they will get more light. They can be kept under shade cloth all year.

When the flowers finish, cut off the bloom spikes and start feeding them with a 30-10-10 liquid or 20-10-5 slow-release tablets or liquid fertilizer high in nitrogen for growth once or twice a month. 

Black marks on the leaves and pseudobulbs are a sign of fungus from too much shade and/or over watering.

Camellias and Azaleas Camellias should be pruned and lightly fed after they finish blooming. They should have been fed twice by now, at six-week intervals, starting in May. This is the last feeding they will need this the year.

Azaleas need feeding only twice a year. Once when they've finished blooming and not again until late September. If they begin to fade in mid-summer, they can be fed lightly, but they can easily die when overfed.

Feed both of these plants with a fertilizer especially for Camellias and Azaleas available at Dixieline by Best or Schultz. Follow the package directions. Neither should have the soil disturbed under them as they have very fine feeder roots that can be damaged too easily.

If the leaves on either of these plants become yellow with dark green veins they are showing a lack of iron–chlorosis. Make sure the soil isn't too moist. Treatment with a foliar product that contains iron, manganese and zinc as your soil may be too alkaline which blocks these nutrients.

Tuberous Begonia

While in bloom, tuberous begonias have voracious appetites. Feed them weekly with an 8-8-8 balanced fertilizer or slow-release 14-14-14. Let them dry out before watering and be sure not to over water them. Deadhead them but leave the stems on. When they fall off, then remove them.

Watch for white spots on the leaves. This is a powdery mildew which can be controlled with an antitranspirant. Protect them from snails and slugs.

Fuchsias

You should be enjoying beautiful fuchsia blooms now. To encourage more blooms, feed them with a well balanced fertilizer high in nitrogen. Don't water too much, but keep the soil from drying out. Combat cabbage loopers with BT, Bayer Rose and Flower for spider mites and whiteflies and Sevin for rust mites. Always consider purchasing beneficial insects at nurseries too.

Gardenias

If you are having problems with bud drop or whiteflies on your gardenias, consider the location of the plant. If it is close to a wall, porch or patio, temperature may be the problem. Control thrips with Diazinon or Malathion from Greenlight. Use a systemic only as a last resort.

Bougainvillea

If you've recently planted a bougainvillea, they are fragile and should be handled with great care. Once established they are drought resistant and robust. Feed them  monthly with a well balanced fertilizer from April through August until they are three-years-old.

Water Lily

Fertilizing water plants is a little more work than feeding other plants. It often means getting physically  into the pond with the plants. Be sure to wear protective clothing and long rubber gloves. Some types of algae can be absorbed into the skin and produce allergic reactions. Water lilies should be fertilized every 4 to 6 weeks from April through August. You can find fertilizer pellets specifically for water lilies which are slow release. The rule of thumb is to use approximately between five and ten grams of a good fertilizer such as 10-20-10 for every gallon of soil. See the Purchase and Plant and Pruning sections for more information.

Tropicals and
Subtropicals

Tropical and subtropical plants should be fertilized while they are growing during the summer months. Refer to a book for specifics as each have individual needs. For more information, see our Purchase and Plant section.

Cactus and Euphorbias

Mix a complete fertilizer with water in a watering can and apply around the roots following the directions on the package. Container-grown plants should be fed 1 tablespoon per gallon once a month or 1 teaspoon per gallon every three of four waterings during their growing season. Allow them to dry out between watering and ensure there is good drainage.

Bromeliads

Feed bromeliads at one-third or half strength for other plants with a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the summer. Apply around the roots and put a little in the cup. Mist plants occasionally with the solution for best results. 

Epiphyllums

Most of the year these tree-dwelling plants are tucked away in the shade. Keep them in a semi-shady spot and feed regularly with a balanced liquid fertilizer 8-8-8 or Liquinox Fish Emulsion through the summer. Add a high bloom formula occasionally and keep watch for when they need water. If it is damp when you poke your finger down into the soil an inch or two don't water them. Water only until you see it beginning to drain out of the container. If it's rainy, don't water at all. It's best to use a drip system if possible. 

Insect Pests
and Beneficials

There are plenty of hungry caterpillars and worms out now. Spray with a product containing BT, such as Safer Caterpillar Killer, if you're having a serious problem controlling them.

Whiteflies are difficult to get rid of as they develop and multiply quickly, thus allowing them a natural resistance to pesticides. The larvae is what actually weakens the plant by sucking the juices. Spiders and ladybugs can be effective if introduced early enough. Keeping your plants well-fed, healthy, free from ants and stocked with beneficial insects is the best way to keep whiteflies down. If the problem is extreme, try 2-in-1 Systemic Rose and Flower Care from Bayer. 

Birds and insects spread fuchsia mites which attack new growth, distort buds and foilage and turn the flowers red. Some varieties are resistant, but others such as jingle bells and marinka are more susceptible. They can usually be controlled with beneficials, but if the infestation is serious, cut out the infected parts and dispose of them in the trash. Spray with Sevin at least twice, two to three weeks apart. Mix it with a miticide to prevent killing all the beneficials.

Spider mites can damage and sometimes kill plants by sucking out the juices. They are tiny reddish or black spider-like insects and will leave a fine webbing over, around and under leaves and twigs. Sometimes fertilizing will overcome the mites without spraying. Use a miticide such as Houseplants and Garden Insect Spray by Schultz to combat heavy infestations.

If you have beans, gardenia, gladioli, marguerite or roses with distorted leaves and scratches on the stems, you may have a problem with thrips. Use chemicals only as a last resort and only on ornamentals. Try diatomaceous earth, introduce beneficial insects or wash the plants with an insecticidal soap. Again, keeping your garden area clean is the first defense.

Follow all safety instructions when using any chemicals.

Some beneficial insects like ladybugs and green lacewings can be a great help in controlling insect pests and can be purchased at nurseries now. Apply by small spoonfuls in the cool evening hours, especially on fuchsias. Look through a catalog and send away for lacewings, predatory mites and other beneficial insects. Birds and bats eat many insects that can harm your garden, so encourage them. Welcome spiders and hold back on chemicals.

Citrus and
Avocado Trees

Water citrus trees deeply every two to three weeks. To avoid fungus disease (gumosis) be careful not to water the trunk. Let the hose run slowly on the ground about a third of the way from the trunk to that far past the drip line. Make sure there is a nice water basin to contain the water which will ensure the feeder roots get enough water.

Water avocado trees with a slow sprinkler starting at about two feet from the trunk all around and under the branches. Though not susceptible to gummosis, they are prone to root rot if the soil is poorly drained or too wet. 

Pests are active now. Watch for aphids, mealy bugs, rust and silver mites and wooly whitefly. You may need a magnifying glass to see them and if necessary, consult a book about controlling citrus pests. Don’t spray with malathion when blooming—you'll have flowers, but no fruit.

Washing citrus trees can help prevent or rid them of pests. Use an insecticidal soap. The leaves can be hand-washed with ultra fine oil in extreme cases. Cut the tips of any branches that touch the ground to help prevent ants. Don’t cut too much, the trunk needs the branches to protect it from sunburn. Regular commercial spraying is best to get rid of ants.

Snails especially like orange trees. Remove any you find and clip off any leaves that touch the ground.

Tip: putting a copper band around the tree trunk prevents snails from crawling up.

conifers

To keep conifers healthy, don’t plant them in soggy or areas with poor drainage. Irrigate them regularly and fertilize with nitrogen from early spring to late fall, especially when it’s hot and dry. Bark beetles can kill Monterey cypress and Monterey pines suddenly. If trees appear sick, look for drill holes and sap mixed with boring dust around the bark. Peel the bark around the hold and you can see where they live and reproduce. A professional may be able to save the tree, but sprays won’t cure the problem. If you must remove the tree, don’t pile the wood near healthy tress, the beetles may spread. Don’t prune now, wait until late fall.

Vegetables

Most crops will benefit from a boost of nitrogen at about half way through the season (with the exception of beans). Beans only need nitrogen if they are growing slowly; too much nitrogen will stop them from producing. When corn begins to tassle out, fertilize them. Once tomatoes start to bloom then side-dress them. Keep vegetables side-dressed now especially if they are yellowing or slowing down in growth. Most importantly, water deeply and regularly. They need about 1" of water a week.

Use a slug and snail product recommended for the vegetable garden to protect lettuce. You can also bait the perimeter and cut them off at the pass. Leaflhoppers carry disease and if necessary treat them with diatomaceous earth. Unfortunately this may kill some beneficial insects as well. By planting herbs and marigolds in with your vegetables you can confuse and cut down on insect pests. Consult a vegetable gardening book to see what herbs will work best in your vegetable garden.

Tomatoes

Indeterminate tomatoes will continue to grow until the cold weather stops them. Stop pinching the suckers back once they get to the top of your 8' stakes. Tie a wooden stake horizontally over the stakes to hold up long weak vines. To increase pollination and encourage large, evenly shaped tomatoes, continue to hit the stakes or cages mid-day with a hammer. If you prefer less seeds and more meat, discontinue "rattling their cages" now. Pick them when they are red and ripe. See our Pruning section for more information. 

Warm & Cool
Season
Grasses

Lightly fertilize cool-season lawns with a half pound of fertilizer per every 1,000 square feet of grass if needed to keep it nice and green. Warm-season grasses should be fed during their growing season. The exception is Adalayd grass which should be fed in June and July but not during the heat of the later months. 

To keep dichondra healthy and thick feed it lightly every three weeks. If you have had any problems, including a pest and disease control is very important. Use fertilizer formulated for dichondra or use regular lawn food at half strength.

Feed established zoysia 2-3 lbs of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet with nitrogen when its color dimishes.

It is key with any grass as it gets hot to water deeply and infrequently. Preferably early in the day. Keeping it mowed to the correct height for each variety will also keep it healthy, protected from the hot sun and will cut down on pest problems. 

   



 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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