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To save money, and have some fun, consider
starting
your plants from seed.
It's rewarding and fun for the kids too!
For general how-to
information see our How-To Projects Page
How
to plant a new lawn:
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Kill existing weeds with Roundup. Repeat application after two weeks from
initial spraying.
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Prepare soil to a depth
of 6". Work Whitney Farms planters mix into the soil at a rate of 2
cu. ft. per 50 sq. ft. Improving your soil condition now, will promote a
healthy lawn in the future.
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Rake ground smooth.
Remove rocks and any other foreign matter. Water soil to settle and
roll using a lawn roller.
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Apply fertilizer.
Add a high phosphorous fertilizer at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 sq.
ft. This is also the time to apply
a soil sulfur to correct an alkaline soil condition. Typical
application rate would be 1 lb/per 100 sq. ft./per point of pH
reducing requirement.
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Plant - Sow seed or lay
sod following your preparation of the soil. If you are sowing seed,
lightly rake seed into the soil and cover with Whitney Farms garden mulch.
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Water - Keep seed
and sod moist following planting. Never let the soil dry out completely.
This could require watering 2 or 3 times a day. The initial watering is
extremely important.
How
to plant bare root roses:
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Prune off any broken
or damaged roots.
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Soak bare root in a bucket of water while
you prepare the hole.
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Dig hole 2' across and 18" deep, the bigger
the better.
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Add soil amendments to planting soil.
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Build a mound of dirt in the center to support
the stock and root system. Spread the roots carefully over the mound.
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Be sure the bud of the root stock is 2 to 3
inches above ground level. (The bud is the large knob at the base of the
plant where new canes emerge. This should not be buried (as it is in the
East or Midwest). Plant high so the bud doesn't get buried with mulch over
time.
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Fill hole with amended soil and firmly pat down.
Add mulch around plant and build a watering basin.
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Slowly water plant, thoroughly drenching roots.
Apply adequate water to keep roots moist, especially the first few weeks
Bare
Root Plant Tips:
When purchasing
bare-root plants make sure they don’t dry out. Purchase them early and
you’ll get the best plants. It’s best to put bare-root plants in the
ground as soon as possible. If you are going to plant right away, submerge
the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or two as soon as you get home.
If you buy plants wrapped by the shipper and can’t plant them right
away, leave them in a shady spot in the container and they should stay
moist for a few weeks. You can also find bare-root plants in a bin of
shavings. If you purchase them this way you can choose specimens with a
strong root system, but you must keep them moist.
How
to plant bulbs:
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Read bulb labels carefully for
correct planting time. Some bulbs need refrigeration, some don't.
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Take
note of planting depths and spacing. A general rule: Plant large
bulbs at a depth that equals twice their height and small bulbs
a little deeper than twice their height.
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Bulbs need soil that
drains well. Add sand, peatmoss or other organic matter to increase
drainage.
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Work the soil to a
depth of 12" adding a 5-10-5 combination commercial fertilizer. Bone
meal also makes a good addition.
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When digging single
holes for bulbs, mix a teaspoon of bone meal with the soil in the bottom
of each hole.
How
to chill bulbs:
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Chill bulbs in paper bags with
peat moss. It keeps them dry and maintains air circulation.
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Do not store in the
same drawer as fruit. Ripening fruit emits a gas that can prevent bulbs
from blooming.
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Check bulbs to make
sure they are firm and mold-free.
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After about 6 to 8
weeks, voila ... your bulbs are ready for planting.
Helpful
tips for all types of sprayers:
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Read all labels
carefully for proper use of chemicals.
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Always follow label directions.
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Measure spray materials exactly.
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Wettable powders and thick liquids should
be mixed first in a small amount of water to make a thin paste.
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Do not apply pesticides to plants in a
stress condition.
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Use safety equipment for your personal
protection.
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Spray only on calm days to prevent wind
drift of chemicals.
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Spray early in the morning. Do not spray
when temperatures exceed 85° within a 24 hour period.
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Do not spray when rain is expected within
24 hours.
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Left over spray solution loses its
effectiveness when stored for any length of time.
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Remove pets and children from spray area
until area has completely dried or as recommended on label instructions.
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Always thoroughly clean sprayer after
using, with clean soapy water.
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Water 48 hours prior to application of
chemicals.
Dethatching
warm-season lawns:
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Warm
weather is important to the start of a healthy lawn. Dethatch in late
February along the coast and March for inland areas.
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Rent a vertical mower or professional renovator.
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Mow the lawn twice. Change direction and lower
cutting level in-between mowings.
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Next, mow with the dethatching mower. Move in
both directions and then diagonally (mow in one direction then
perpendicular, then again diagonally). Again adjust cutting level of
blades between each direction change, lower each time.
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Rake up thatch and dispose. Do not compost.
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Sprinkle on fast-acting fertilizer. Use a
spreader if possible for even distribution.
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Water thoroughly and keep well watered until
lawn is regrown.
Starting
plants from seeds:
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Purchase flats and
fill with potting soil.
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Start seeds in
semi-shade and follow planting instructions.
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Cover with sheet of
plastic to keep moist until germinated.
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As soon as seeds have
sprouted, move to a sunny location and water daily.
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When two true leaves
have formed, fertilize to promote healthy growth.
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Give plants a little
more time to establish an efficient root system and transplant.
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Use the following chart for what seeds should be planted and what
starts can be transplanted in October .
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Transplants |
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Seeds |
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alyssum
calendula
cineria
cyclamen
delphinium
dianthus
foxglove
flowering cabbage
Iceland poppy
johnny-jump-up
nemesia
paludosum daisy
pansy
perennial candytuft
Primroses:
English or polyanthus,
fairy or malacoides,
and obconica
snapdragons
stock
sweet violet
sweet William
and viola |
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African
daisy
calendula
california poppy
clarkia
annual candytuft
godetia
snapdragon
sweey alyssum
Shirley poppy
johnny-jump-up
lavatera
nasturtium
phacelia
forget-me-not
hollyhock
linaria |
Planting
bare root trees
and shrubs
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The same depth as the rootball, and 3 times
wider.
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Lay the tree or shrub down on it’s side and
carefully slide it out, or cut the container away from it. Don’t pull it
by the trunk.
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Place the root ball in the hole, spreading out
the roots and keeping the soil level.
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Refill the hole with garden soil. Roots should
grow into surrounding soil.
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Dig a trench around the plant to make a
temporary water basin.
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Water thoroughly using low pressure from a hose.
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Prune only diseased, damaged or broken limbs and
stems.
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Add organic mulch around the plant at a depth of
about 3", at least 1" away from the trunk.
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Water often the first year until established.
Frost
Tips:
Keep tropical and tender
container-grown plants under a shade tree or the under eaves. Some plants
like plumeria and other tropicals will benefit from being moved inside for
the winter. Keep them in a brightly-lit area or one that gets filtered
sun. Some, like plumeria, may drop their leaves, but they will come back
again when you move them back outside in the spring. If you leave
tropicals outside, keep them watered; plants withstand the cold much
better when their roots are kept moist. If you move them inside, keep them
fairly dry but not totally.
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