Pruning & Maintenance
Fertilize & Disease Control
Misc. Yard & Garden

Divide & Plant
Garden How To's

 

 •  Summer Color  •  Ferns
 •  Epiphyllums  •  Citrus and Avocado Trees
 •  Azaleas  •  Vegetables
 •  Halloween Pumpkins  •  Edible Herbs
 •  Water Lily  •  Wisteria and other vines
 •  Cymbidium  •  Tropicals
 •  Warm- & Cool-Season Grasses   •  Fuschsias and Gardenias
 •  Chrysanthemum, Euryops, Gameolepis and Marguerites
Purchase & Plant

Summer Color

If you have room in your flowerbeds, you still have time to add more beautiful summer color! If you live in the desert, don't wait it may be starting to get too hot already. Really look over your garden area. Most areas can replace and add permanent plants now through June. Find pony packs and "color packs" for instant color. Don't forget to loosen the roots up when you put them in the ground. There usually isn’t much rain through the summer, so choose drought-tolerant plants and group them according to their need for water, shade, sun and type of soil. Prepare your soil well before planting. Apply a garden mulch after planting to protect the tender plants from hot sun. Including a root stimulator/starter such as Best Start by Best or Bandini Bloom Plus at the time of planting will help your new plants get off to a good start.

Some seeds like ageratum, coleus, lobelia, morning glory and scarlet salvia have special planting requirements. Read the packages carefully. Choose and plant some of the following warm-season flowers.

Seeds Transplants
achillea
ageratum
alyssum
anchusa
balsam
basil (ornamental)
browallia
calliopsis
celosia
cleome
coleus
cosmos
gaillardia
gazania
geranium
globe amaranth
gloriosa daisy
helipterum
hollyhock
impatiens
lobelia
marigold
morning glory
scarlet salvia
sanvitalia
strawflower
sunflower
thunbergia
tithonia
verbena
zinnias
agapanthus
ageratum
begonias
camapnulas
candytuft
carnations
columbine
coreopsis
coral bells
daylillies
delphiniums
dianthus
dusty miller
forget-me-nots
gaillardia
geum
globe amaranth
impatiens
lobelia
marguerites
marigold
nierembergia
penstemon
perennial alyssum
petunias
Pride of Maderia
salvia (scarlet & blue)
Shasta daisies
statice
vinca
Canned Roses Plant canned roses this month as you would bare-root roses but don't mound the bottom of the hole. For information on planting bare-root roses, see our link for "How-to Projects for the garden" above.
Cymbidiums These terrestrial orchids can be divided when they begin pushing out of their containers. Water them well then before removing them from the container. Slice through the pseudobulbs and the roots. Keep a minimum of three pseudobulbs and four or five back bulbs which act as containers for the new plants intact. Trim off any damaged or diseased roots and soak them in a ratio of 1:10 bleach and water for 10 minutes then let them air dry. Replant in a container four to six inches wider than the root ball by holding the plant so the pseudobulb is level with the top of the pot. Use a potting soil recommended especially for cymbidiums filling around the roots. Keep the pseudobulb above the soil or it will rot. Water right away and place in a semi-shady spot. Two to three weeks after planting begin to fertilize.
Azaleas The best time to plant azaleas is when they are in bloom and their roots are dormant. Plant them in partial shade and once the blooms fade they will start to grow and send out new roots. They are a bit particular about watering. A drip system is the easiest way to keep them watered and healthy. (See the Pruning section for more information.)
Wisteria Wisteria is one of the best vines to grow in San Diego. It has wonderful shape, fragrance and color and it can be planted anywhere from beach to mountains. It takes a year or two, but once established, is very drought resistant  and will tolerate just about any kind of care. There are two types of wisteria. Chinese (wisteria siensis) blooms on bare branches all at once. Japanese (wisteria floribunda), which has a longer bloom cycle, is fuller from top to bottom and more fragrant. Wisteria can be found in pink, purple, white and a violet-blue. Plants grown from cuttings, rather than seedlings, are best. 
Bulbs Break apart tiger flower bulbs and plant them three inches deep and six inches apart. Mix in plenty of soil amendment if you have clay soil, or put them in pots or raised beds. They like full sun on the coast and afternoon shade if planted inland. Though the flower lasts only one day, there will be many through August.

Tuberoses are fragrant and a wonderful addition in a warm spot in full sun on the coast or with reflected heat in a shaded spot inland. Tubers should have a green growth tip. Place them six inches apart in acid well-drained soil with the tip parallel to the surface of the soil. Keep them watered and once a sprout appears, feed them monthly with Bandini Super Bloom.

Tuberous begonias can be brought out if you put them up last year, or purchase them now. Check to be sure there is a sprout or two on the tuber. They like an east-facing wall or semi-shade and require rich acid soil. They are a very rewarding plant, but are not easy to grow. Check with a nursery for specific details on growing begonias from tubers. 

Water Lily Water lilies can be found at many nurseries around San Diego. There are two types, hardy and tropical. Blooms of tropical lilies stand up above the water and those of the hardy variety float on the surface of the water. Hardy lilies can be planted when the water is 50°F and tropical water lilies should be planted only after the water reaches 65°F. All water lilies require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. If you purchase them in pots, place them in your water garden at about the same depth they came from and as far away from your fountain or waterfall as possible as they like calm waters. 

If you find bare root lilies, keep the tubers or rhizomes moist until ready to plant. To plant, trim off any brown or limp roots leaving the healthy white and crisp roots intact. Any plastic container for planting will work, but keep in mind the more room the roots have the better they will grow (wide and shallow containers are best for hardy lilies). You'll also need a drainage hole to allow any gasses that may build up in the pot to escape. If necessary, you may need to put a couple of inches of polyester quilt batting in the bottom of the pot to keep the soil from running out. 

Fill the basket half way with a good aquatic potting soil then add fertilizer specifically for water lilies.* Add soil to about two-thirds full and place the rhizome of a hardy lily toward the side of the container roots down with the bud at a 45° angle. For a tropical water lily, the white line on the tuber indicates where the soil level should be when the pot is filled. Place the tuber in the center of the pot. With both types, spread the roots out. Continue to add soil up to 2 inches below the top. Soak the pot and place about 1 inch of washed gravel on top leaving the growth point exposed. Slowly submerge the the container to a water depth of 4 to 6 inches using bricks to maintain proper depth. When the plant begins to grow and covers about 8 inches, lower it to 8 to 12 inches deep. (*See the Fertilize and Disease control section for more information.)

Chrysanthemums, Euryops, Gamolepis and  Marguerites

All of these plants root easily. For mums, bending the stalks from the tips until they snap—about 3-5" to make cuttings. Then dip the end in RooTone. There should be at least two leaf buds. Place in flats with damp, fast-draining planting mix. Cover with plastic and put them in a brightly lit shady spot. Put them in the ground once rooted and feed for growth. Pinch them back through August to encourage bushiness once they begin to grow. Stake as needed. 
Transvaal Daisy
(Gerbera)
These daisies need good drainage and are easy to grow in pots or in the ground. Don't plant too deeply (keep the crown exposed), but make sure all the roots are underground. Build them up with a moat around the base so the water can drain off. They don't like to be too moist. Let them dry out between watering. They should be protected from snails and fertilized regularly.
Epiphyllums These plants, though not parasitic, attach themselves to other plants, rocks or most commonly to trees. They are usually found in very humid areas and all like well-drained loose acid soils. These tree-dwelling plants enjoy the shade and most of the year are not particularly pretty. Now though the exotic flowers are coming to life. With over 9,000 varieties you have a lot to choose from. Though the blooms only last a short time, often only a day, they will bloom throughout the summer.

Bring them out of hiding and keep them facing in the same direction as they are used to and you'll be able to enjoy them for a long time. Keep faded blooms cut off so they don't drain the plant. Mist them often when it is dry. They use little water but don't neglect watering all together. (See Fertilize and Disease Control section for more care information.)

Tropicals Most tropical fruit and flowering trees, palms, flowers and vines are planted when they are actively growing. Spring is the best time to put them in the ground. The objective is to get them in early so they can take all summer to get established and hopefully they will harden in the late fall to prepare for possible frost.  If you live in a hot interior valley it may be too hot to plant them now. Keep them fed and watered throughout the summer.
Ferns Ferns are a bit particular. They require acid soil with perfect drainage and a shady spot. Fish emulsion is low in nitrogen and non-burning. If you choose to use a complete fertilizer, be sure it is well diluted and the soil is wet before application. They respond well to phosphorus and potassium but too much nitrogen may kill them. 

Sprouts from staghorn ferns can be separated from the main plant and transplanted now. Attach a hook or wire to a flat piece of wood or plywood while soaking some green sphagnum moss in water. Cover and secure the wood with a layer of moss one to two inches deep, holding it in place with wire, netting or fishing line. Once prepared, carefully pull off 1–4 shoots from the mother plant and tie the root ball tightly to the bark with cotton string. It is necessary to have at least one sterile and one fertile frond which will eventually grip the bark and support the plant. Protect the plant from bright light and keep it moist until it has rooted. Once established, feed with Western States Fish emulsion every two weeks. Misting a couple of times a week with diluted fish emulsion will speed up growth.

Warm- and Cool-Season Grasses

Warm- and cool-season grasses can be planted from seed this month or sod any month of the year, but cool-season grasses do better when planted in October. 

Determine what type of lawn will be best suited for your needs. Warm-season grasses go dormant in the winter and are invasive. Cool-season lawns stay green but require much more water. Also consider, traffic, maintenance and water requirements before deciding.

Before planting any seed or sod, prepare the ground by deeply tilling the soil and adding soil amendment as needed. Level the area and lightly roll the ground. Install edging if necessary to keep warm-season lawns from invading borders. Lightly and evenly sprinkle seed over the area and cover with Whitney Farms Garden Mulch as a top dressing. Sprinkle 2-3 times early each day to keep damp until established (avoid watering late in the day). If you prefer the quick approach, plant sod. Keep it very moist until it is firmly established. 

Citrus and
Avocado Trees
Avocado and citrus trees will benefit from being planted now by the warmth of the spring and summer when they are establishing their roots. They need good draining soil. Check with a nursery on which trees are be best for your area. 
Edible Herbs This is the perfect time to plant edible herbs. You'll find oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme and parsley transplants and spicy globe basil seeds at nurseries ready to plant now. Flavorful French tarragon (not Russian), horseradish and mint are invasive and are best grown in containers. Plant basil from transplants or seed near tomatoes.

Hint: Herbs planted with your vegetables have a good effect on them. Consult books on herbs for how these plants can help ward off pests when grown with your vegetables. 

Vegetables The earlier the better when planting vegetables. Plant beets, carrots, chayote, corn, cucumber, eggplant, endive, green beans, leaf lettuce, lima beans, melons, New Zealand spinach, peppers, pumpkin, radishes, squash, Swiss chard, tomatoes, turnips and zucchini. Keep the area harvested to make room for planting more veggies and to help prevent pests and disease. Remember not to plant too much of one crop at a time and rotate vegetables you plant so you don’t become overwhelmed. For example, two or three plants of zucchini are enough for a family of four. Plant seeds in intervals of 2–3 weeks using a partial package of seeds and you’ll have veggies all summer long. Try planting different varieties of the same crop, your family will enjoy testing the differences in variety, size and sweetness.

Vegetable gardens need full sun, so arrange your garden from north to south to make the best use of light. Plant tall crops to the north and short crops to the south. If you have clay or sandy soil add plenty of organic soil amendment. Plant raised beds if the soil is hard or has poor drainage. Most vegetables need an inch or more water a week. Installing a drip system is the best way to ensure proper watering in our area. By putting the water where the roots are you will use about 50 percent less water.

Halloween Pumpkin You can grow your own Halloween pumpkin if you start now. In full sun, dig a hole and mix compost, organic soil amendment and horse manure with your soil then add in vegetable fertilizer. Mound the amended soil four to six inches high and about 18 inches at the base. Make two basins, one on the top and one on the north side of the hill. Plant four to six seeds one-inch deep in the top and water every day. Once the sprouts are four inches, snip all but the best one off and begin to water deeply in the basin.

 In a few months, you'll have grapefruit-size pumpkins. If you want a very large Halloween pumpkin, you can keep the one with the thickest stem, closest to the roots and cut off the rest. Feed a high nitrogen fertilizer monthly and keep the filling the water basin to about an inch a day. Keep the bottom of the pumpkin dry and protected from rotting by placing on a piece of wood. 

   



 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 



 


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