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Purchase
& Plant |
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Summer
Color
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If
you have room in your flowerbeds, you still have time to add more beautiful summer color! If you
live in the desert, don't wait it may be starting to get too hot
already. Really look over your garden area. Most
areas can replace and add permanent plants now through June. Find pony packs and "color
packs" for instant color. Don't forget to loosen the roots up
when you put them in the ground. There
usually isn’t much rain through the summer, so choose
drought-tolerant plants and group them according to their need for
water, shade, sun and type of soil. Prepare your soil well before
planting. Apply a garden mulch after planting to protect the tender
plants from hot sun. Including a root stimulator/starter such as
Best Start by Best or Bandini Bloom Plus at the time of planting
will help your new plants get off to a good start.
Some seeds like ageratum, coleus, lobelia, morning
glory and scarlet salvia have
special planting requirements. Read the packages carefully. Choose
and plant some of the following warm-season flowers.
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Seeds |
Transplants |
achillea
ageratum
alyssum
anchusa
balsam
basil (ornamental)
browallia
calliopsis
celosia
cleome
coleus
cosmos
gaillardia
gazania
geranium
globe amaranth
gloriosa daisy
helipterum
hollyhock
impatiens
lobelia
marigold
morning glory
scarlet salvia
sanvitalia
strawflower
sunflower
thunbergia
tithonia
verbena
zinnias
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agapanthus
ageratum
begonias
camapnulas
candytuft
carnations
columbine
coreopsis
coral bells
daylillies
delphiniums
dianthus
dusty miller
forget-me-nots
gaillardia
geum
globe amaranth
impatiens
lobelia
marguerites
marigold
nierembergia
penstemon
perennial alyssum
petunias
Pride of Maderia
salvia (scarlet & blue)
Shasta daisies
statice
vinca
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Canned
Roses |
Plant
canned roses this month as you would bare-root roses but don't mound
the bottom of the hole. For information on planting bare-root roses,
see our link for "How-to Projects for the garden" above.
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Cymbidiums |
These
terrestrial orchids can be divided when they begin pushing out of
their containers. Water them well then before removing them from
the container. Slice through the pseudobulbs and the roots. Keep a minimum of three
pseudobulbs and four or five back bulbs which act as containers for
the new plants intact. Trim off any damaged or diseased
roots and soak them in a ratio of 1:10 bleach and water for 10
minutes then let them air dry. Replant in a container four to six
inches wider than the root ball by holding the plant so the
pseudobulb is level with the top of the pot. Use a potting soil
recommended especially for cymbidiums filling around the roots. Keep
the pseudobulb above the soil or it will rot. Water right away and
place in a semi-shady spot. Two to three weeks after planting begin
to fertilize.
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Azaleas |
The best time to
plant azaleas is when they are in bloom and their roots are dormant. Plant
them in partial shade and once the blooms fade they will
start to grow and send out new roots. They are a bit particular
about watering. A drip system is the easiest
way to keep them watered and healthy. (See the Pruning section
for more information.)
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Wisteria |
Wisteria
is one of the best vines to grow in San Diego. It has
wonderful shape, fragrance and color and it can be planted anywhere
from beach to mountains. It takes a year or two, but once established, is very drought resistant
and will
tolerate just about any kind of care. There are two types of
wisteria. Chinese (wisteria siensis) blooms on bare branches all at
once. Japanese (wisteria floribunda), which has a longer bloom
cycle, is fuller from top to bottom and more fragrant. Wisteria can
be found in pink, purple, white and a violet-blue. Plants grown from
cuttings, rather than seedlings, are best.
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Bulbs |
Break
apart tiger flower bulbs and plant them three inches deep and six
inches apart. Mix in plenty of soil amendment if you have clay
soil, or put them in pots or raised beds. They like full sun on the
coast and afternoon shade if planted inland. Though the flower lasts
only one day, there will be many through August.
Tuberoses are fragrant and a
wonderful addition in a warm spot in full sun on the coast or with
reflected heat in a shaded spot inland. Tubers should have a green
growth tip. Place them six inches apart in acid well-drained
soil with the tip parallel to the surface of the soil. Keep them
watered and once a sprout appears, feed them monthly with Bandini
Super Bloom.
Tuberous begonias can be
brought out if you put them up last year, or purchase them
now. Check to be sure there is a sprout or two on the tuber.
They like an east-facing wall or semi-shade and require rich acid
soil. They are a very rewarding plant, but are not easy to grow.
Check with a nursery for specific details on growing begonias from
tubers.
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Water Lily |
Water
lilies can be found at many nurseries around San Diego. There are
two types, hardy and tropical. Blooms of tropical lilies stand up
above the water and those of the hardy variety float on the surface of the water. Hardy lilies
can be planted when the water is 50°F and tropical water lilies
should be planted only after the water reaches 65°F. All water lilies require at least 6
hours of direct sunlight. If you purchase
them in pots, place them in your water garden at about the same depth
they came from and as far away from your fountain or waterfall as
possible as they like calm waters.
If you find bare root lilies, keep
the tubers or rhizomes moist until ready to plant. To plant, trim off any
brown or limp roots leaving the healthy white and crisp roots
intact. Any plastic container for
planting will work, but keep in mind the more room the roots have
the better they will grow (wide and shallow containers are best for
hardy lilies). You'll also need a drainage hole to allow
any gasses that may build up in the pot to escape. If necessary, you
may need to put a couple of inches of polyester quilt batting in the
bottom of the pot to keep the soil from running out.
Fill the basket
half way with a good aquatic potting soil then add fertilizer
specifically for
water lilies.* Add soil to about two-thirds full and place the
rhizome of a hardy lily toward the side of the container roots down with the bud at a 45° angle.
For a tropical water lily, the white line on the tuber indicates
where the soil level should be when the pot is filled. Place the
tuber in the center of the pot. With both types, spread the roots
out. Continue to
add soil up to 2 inches below the top. Soak the pot and place about
1 inch of washed gravel on top leaving the growth point exposed.
Slowly submerge the the container to a water depth of 4 to 6 inches
using bricks to maintain proper depth. When the
plant begins to grow and covers about 8 inches, lower it to 8 to 12
inches deep. (*See the Fertilize and Disease control section for
more information.) |
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Chrysanthemums,
Euryops, Gamolepis and Marguerites |
All
of these plants root easily. For mums, bending the stalks from the
tips until they snap—about 3-5" to make cuttings. Then dip the
end in RooTone. There should be at least two leaf buds. Place in
flats with damp, fast-draining planting mix. Cover with plastic and
put them in a brightly lit shady spot. Put them in the ground once rooted
and feed for growth. Pinch them back through August to encourage
bushiness once they begin to grow. Stake as needed. |
Transvaal
Daisy
(Gerbera) |
These
daisies need good drainage and are easy to grow in pots or in the
ground. Don't plant too
deeply (keep the crown exposed), but make sure all the roots are
underground. Build them up with a moat around the base so the water
can drain off. They don't like to be too moist. Let them dry out
between watering. They should be protected from snails and
fertilized regularly. |
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Epiphyllums |
These
plants, though not parasitic, attach themselves to other plants,
rocks or most commonly to trees. They are usually found in very
humid areas and all like well-drained loose acid soils. These
tree-dwelling plants enjoy the shade and most of the year are not
particularly pretty. Now though the exotic flowers are coming to
life. With over 9,000 varieties you have a lot to choose from.
Though the blooms only last a short time, often only a day, they
will bloom throughout the summer.
Bring them out of hiding and keep
them facing in the same direction as they are used to and you'll be
able to enjoy them for a long time. Keep faded
blooms cut off so they don't drain the plant. Mist them often when it is
dry. They use little water but don't neglect watering all together.
(See Fertilize and Disease Control section for more care
information.)
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Tropicals |
Most
tropical fruit and flowering trees, palms, flowers and vines are
planted when they are actively growing. Spring is the best time to
put them in the ground. The objective is to get them in early so
they can take all summer to get established and hopefully they will
harden in the late fall to prepare for possible frost. If you
live in a hot interior valley it may be too hot to plant them now.
Keep them fed and watered throughout the summer. |
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Ferns |
Ferns
are a bit particular. They require acid soil with perfect drainage
and a shady spot. Fish emulsion is low in nitrogen and non-burning. If you
choose to use a complete fertilizer, be sure it is well diluted and
the soil is wet before application. They respond well to phosphorus
and potassium but too much nitrogen may kill them.
Sprouts from staghorn ferns
can be separated from the main plant and transplanted now. Attach a
hook or wire to a flat piece of wood or plywood while soaking some
green sphagnum moss in water. Cover and secure the wood with a layer
of moss one to two inches deep, holding it in place with wire,
netting or fishing line. Once prepared, carefully pull off 1–4
shoots from the mother plant and tie the root ball tightly to the
bark with cotton string. It is necessary to have at least one
sterile and one fertile frond which will eventually grip the bark and
support the plant. Protect the plant from bright light and keep it
moist until it has rooted. Once established, feed with Western
States Fish emulsion every two weeks. Misting a couple of times a
week with diluted fish emulsion will speed up growth. |
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Warm-
and Cool-Season Grasses |
Warm- and cool-season grasses can be planted from seed this
month or sod any month of the year, but cool-season grasses do better when planted in October.
Determine what type of lawn will be
best suited for your needs. Warm-season grasses go dormant in the
winter and are invasive. Cool-season lawns stay green but require
much more water. Also consider, traffic, maintenance
and water requirements before deciding.
Before planting any seed or sod,
prepare the ground by deeply tilling the soil and adding soil
amendment as needed. Level the area and lightly roll the ground.
Install edging if necessary to keep warm-season lawns from invading
borders. Lightly and evenly sprinkle seed over the area and cover
with Whitney Farms Garden Mulch as a top dressing. Sprinkle 2-3 times early each day to
keep damp until established (avoid watering late in the day). If you prefer the
quick approach, plant sod. Keep it very moist until it is firmly
established. |
Citrus
and
Avocado Trees |
Avocado
and citrus trees will benefit from being planted now by the warmth
of the spring and summer when they are establishing their roots.
They need good draining soil. Check with a nursery on which
trees are be best for your area. |
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Edible
Herbs |
This
is the perfect time to plant edible herbs. You'll find oregano,
rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme and parsley transplants and
spicy globe basil seeds at nurseries ready to plant now. Flavorful
French tarragon (not Russian), horseradish and mint are invasive and
are best grown in containers. Plant basil from transplants or seed
near tomatoes.
Hint: Herbs planted with your
vegetables have a good effect on them. Consult books on herbs for
how these plants can help ward off pests when grown with your vegetables. |
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Vegetables |
The earlier the
better when planting vegetables. Plant
beets, carrots, chayote, corn, cucumber, eggplant, endive, green beans, leaf lettuce,
lima
beans, melons, New Zealand spinach,
peppers, pumpkin, radishes, squash, Swiss chard, tomatoes,
turnips and zucchini. Keep the area harvested to make room for
planting more veggies and to help prevent pests
and disease. Remember not to plant too much of one crop at a
time and rotate vegetables you plant so you don’t become
overwhelmed. For example, two or three plants of zucchini are
enough for a family of four. Plant seeds in intervals of 2–3 weeks
using a partial package of seeds and you’ll have veggies all
summer long. Try planting different varieties of the same crop, your
family will enjoy testing the differences in variety, size and
sweetness.
Vegetable gardens need full sun, so
arrange your garden from north to south to make the best use of
light. Plant tall crops to the north and short crops to the south.
If you have clay or sandy soil add plenty of organic soil amendment.
Plant raised beds if the soil is hard or has poor drainage. Most
vegetables need an inch or more water a week. Installing a drip
system is the best way to ensure proper watering in our area. By
putting the water where the roots are you will use about 50 percent
less water.
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Halloween
Pumpkin |
You can grow your own
Halloween pumpkin if you start now. In full sun, dig a hole and mix
compost, organic soil amendment and horse manure with your soil then
add in vegetable fertilizer. Mound the amended soil four to six
inches high and about 18 inches at the base. Make two basins, one on
the top and one on the north side of the hill. Plant four to six
seeds one-inch deep in the top and water every day. Once the sprouts
are four inches, snip all but the best one off and begin to water
deeply in the basin.
In a few months, you'll have grapefruit-size pumpkins. If
you want a very large Halloween pumpkin, you can keep the one with
the thickest stem, closest to the roots and cut off the rest. Feed a
high nitrogen fertilizer monthly and keep the filling the water
basin to about an inch a day. Keep the bottom of the pumpkin dry and protected from
rotting by placing on a piece of wood. |
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