Watering is the key to success! Once
the hot days of summer hit, be ready. A wise gardener knows the virtues of
mulching and shade as well. Keeping your beds and flowers mulched will
keep the ground and roots cool while also preventing the loss of water
through evaporation. Mulch should be at least two inches thick to be most
effective during the summer months.
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& Plant |
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Color
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Since October
is one of the biggest months for planting in San Diego. It's
too hot here in September to transplant much now, but it's the perfect time for
planning and preparing your beds for planting next month.
If you planted flats or peat pots of
cool-season flowers in August, they can be transplanted into
flowerbeds in October. Move young stock planted from seed from shade
into full sun when they have two real leaves, feed each plant.
Keep the beds cleaned up, if
necessary, start to replace faded flowers with winter annuals and
perennials by mid-September. Plant as early as possible if you want
blooms by Christmas. Plant alyssum, calendula, snapdragons, stock
and viola from pony packs or from seed. Plant pony packs of
candytuft, English primrose, foxglove, Iceland poppy, nemesia,
malacoides and obconica primrose, and pansies. Plant annual African
daisy, cineraria, johnny-jump-up, sweet peas and wildflowers from
seed. You’ll enjoy the winter euryops and margurites if
you put them in full sun now. If you are using a small container,
replace all of the soil. If you are planting in a large tub, replace
one third of the soil. Remember to add plenty of soil amendment
regardless of where you plant.
Impatiens are easy to grow and nearly
always in bloom. Put them into the ground using loose acid soil,
hang them in baskets or keep them in the containers you bought them
in. They do well in shady or semi-shady spots. Wait until fall to
plant them in direct sun. With new varieties constantly emerging,
there is a wide assortment to choose from to suit most any area of
your garden. Water impatiens often, daily if grown in containers.
They are one of the few plants that you almost can't over
water.
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Azaleas |
The best time to
plant azaleas is when they are in bloom when their roots are dormant. Plant
them in partial shade and once the blooms fade they will
start to grow and send out new roots. They are a bit particular
about watering. A drip system is the easiest
way to keep them watered and healthy. (See Fertilize and Disease
Control for more information).
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Biennials |
Biennials
like like Canterbury bells, foxglove and sweet William can
be transplanted into the garden when they are 2-3 inches high, usually by
September. They
won’t bloom for two years, but are well worth the wait.
Mix potting soil and milled peat moss
with well-dug soil. Sprinkle the tiny seeds on the surface, pressing
them into the soil, but don’t cover them (they need light to
germinate). Mist with water, cover with plastic to keep them moist,
and place them in a warm shady spot. When they have sprouted, remove the
cover. Feed with a well-diluted solution of Liquinox Fish Emulsion.
When there are two real leaves, transplant into the garden.
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Lilies |
The
new varieties are much easier to grow than the general reputation
for difficulty implies. There are hundreds of species and varieties
classified in nine divisions. One may work in one zone, but not in another. You may have to try
several before you find the ones that will work in your garden.
They never go dormant and must never
dry out, so plant bulbs at a depth of twice their height as soon as
you purchase them. Work in plenty of bone meal below the roots. They
like very good, well draining soil and constant moisture. Keep them
out of windy areas.
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Bulbs |
Purchase
spring-flowering bulbs by mid-September. Many are drought-resistant,
will come back year after year and are very easy to grow. Many of
these bulbs can stand little or nearly no water now. Be sure to
place them in fast draining soil.
Some drought-resistant varieties should be planted
now and will do well in our area; try babiana, chasmanthe, crososmia,
freesia, ixia, lapeirousia, montbretia, sparaxis, strepthanthera,
tritonia and watsonia. Buy the firmest, largest and fattest bulbs
for bigger blooms.
Look for and keep daffodills with three or more
divisions together. If they are connected, each will produce a
bloom. Don’t buy tulip bulbs without the "tunics" or
papery covering, they may have dried out. Purchase anemones, crocus,
hyacinth and grape hyacinth, ranunculus and tulips now, but don’t
plant them yet. Keep them cool and dry. Beginning late-October or
November many bulbs such as crocus, hyacinths and most tulips need a
cold winter or pre-chilling the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks prior to
planting in order for them to bloom.
Refer to a book on bulbs for planting depth and
care. The rule of thumb is plant bulbs at depth of twice their
height for larger bulbs and a little deeper for small bulbs.
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Cyclamen |
Purchase
tubers or plants in bloom now to grow in pots, hang in baskets or
put into the ground. Plant florist cyclamen tubers in humusy moist
soil in a cool, semi-shady spot leaving the top half of the tuber
above ground (other varieties can be planted about a half inch deep)
6-10 inches apart. They like cool shade and to be kept moist until
they are well rooted. Wilting leaves are indicators of either over
or under watering. Feel the stems to determine what they need. Soft
stems indicate overwatering and dry, firm stems indicate
underwatering. (See Fertilize & Disease Control for further
information).
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Tropical
and
Subtropicals |
Along
the coast you can still put in a bougainvillea, hibiscus, lantana,
Natal plum, coral tree, crape myrtle, tree ferns, floss silk tree,
gardenia, ginger or a palm for that Southern California feeling.
Some fall-blooming tropical trees must be put in now if you want to
choose the color. Look for Chinese flame tree, floss silk and Hong
Kong orchid tree. If you choose a floss silk and have children or
pets, look for those without the "spines". Don't delay,
time is running out! If you live in a hot interior valley it's too
hot to plant them now. Keep them fed and watered.
Most tropical fruit and flowering
trees, palms, flowers and vines are planted when they are actively
growing. Spring is the best time to put them in the ground. The
objective is to get them in early so they can take advantage of the
warm weather while getting established and hopefully they will harden in the late fall to
prepare for possible frost. |
Cacti
and
Succulents |
Most
Southern California gardens contain at least one cactus or
succulent. Many gardeners don’t know the difference between the
two. All succulents store water in the leaves or stems and are
drought tolerant, but most do not have spines.
Cacti are one family within the
succulent group. Cacti all have spine cushions and "aeroles"
or spines. Many can be planted as ground cover or in rock gardens.
Succulents can be planted year-round. When planted in the ground,
many can take full sun and others need some shade, especially those
grown in containers. Check with your nursery for guidelines on how
much sun the plant you choose can take. Water when the soil is dry
one inch below the surface, or about every 1–5 weeks. |
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Water Lily and Other
Aquatic plants |
Water
lilies and other aquatic plants can be found at many nurseries around San
Diego and put into your pond. Your pond surface should be covered
approximately 60% with plants and roots which will help keep it balanced.
Algae requires sunlight to thrive, so shading the
pond with aquatic plants can help you cut down dramatically on algae
as well as help to maintain the optimum pH of 8.0. Hyacinth and
water lettuce are favorite floating plants and the multiply very
rapidly. Once you find the right balance of plants and fish, your
pond will be very easy to maintain. (See Fertilize and Disease
Control for more information about pH problems and how to deal with
them).
As the heat of summer really hits
you may see your water hyacinth begin to blacken and the water
lettuce start to get very yellow. Keep your eye on the pH. You can
purchase products to lower the pH, but be sure they won't harm fish
and plants before putting them in your pond.
When adding any new plants to your
pond, notice the depth of water they came from and place them at
about that same depth. Use common bricks or plastic
plant baskets to raise or lower them rather than concrete or cinder blocks. Concrete contains
calcium carbonate that raises the pH very fast. In general, the pH
is high here in San Diego, so putting cinder blocks or concrete of
any kind is not recommended. Fish and plants have a hard
time surviving. |
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Papaya |
Spring is the best time to
plant most
tropical fruit and flowering trees, palms, flowers and vines
but along the coast they can still be planted. Start
papayas from seed or in purchase in flats. Though usually
thought of as a tree or shrub, papayas are actually perennials with
hollow stems. Most varieties require male and female plants to
bear fruit. They grow best on the coast or on south-facing
hillsides, and require fast draining soil. They produce fruit as
young plants and are most successful when grown in large containers.
Some varieties have seeds. Seedless varieties must be started
from transplants—including the most popular in San Diego, Babaco.
Check with a nursery to see whether
the variety you choose can be planted from seeds. Rub the seeds on a
piece of screen under running water to remove the covering.
Germinate by putting the seeds on a plate, cover with a wet paper
towel and a plastic bag. When they have sprouted and have two real
leaves, plant them in shallow fast-draining soil. Keep them damp and
in bright shade. If you compost, you may find seedlings popping up
now. Plant groups of 3-5 seedlings in full sun about 4-6 feet apart.
Make sure they have plenty of water and good draining soil.
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Warm
and Cool
Season
Grasses |
Warm- and cool-season grasses can be planted from seed this
month or sod any month of the year, but cool-season grasses do better when planted in October. Coastal
area lawns should have a half inch of water every three days and
inland, about one inch in three days. Water between midnight and
dawn for best results.
Determine what type of lawn will be
best suited for your needs. Warm-season grasses go dormant in the
winter and are invasive. Cool-season lawns stay green but require
much more water. Also consider, traffic, maintenance
and water requirements before deciding. See How-to-Projects for
the garden above for detailed planting information.
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Blooming
Trees |
Put
in a bougainvillea, cassias, coral tree, crape myrtle, tree fern,
floss silk tree, gardenia, ginger, hibiscus or a palm for that
Southern California feeling. Crape myrtle blooms in July and August
in colors ranging from white through fall reds. Except for Japanese or
hybrid
varieties, such as indica and fauriei,
they are susceptible to mildew. If you live in a hot interior
valley it may be too hot to plant them now. Keep them fed and
watered throughout the summer.
Flame eucalyptus is especially
beautiful against an ocean backdrop and can withstand the coastal
winds. It can be kept as a tree or a very large shrub. It will bloom
on and off all year, but not usually until established.
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Vegetables |
The
focus is on watering and harvesting now while you can enjoy all your fresh vegetables
or freeze and can them for later. Clean up
the rows, add soil amendment and fertilizer before planting winter
crops. Keep rows damp and mist a couple of times daily. Begin
planting winter crops mid-month. Plant
beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower,
celery, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, leaf and head lettuce, mustard
greens, onions (for scallions), parsley, peas, potatoes, radishes,
rutabagas, spinach, Swiss chard and turnip seeds. You may still see summer veggie transplants on the nursery shelf, make sure
what you are planting is a winter crop.
Check with a nursery about which vegetables
may be easiest if planted from transplants and the best time to plant them. Rotate vegetables to help cut down on pests and
prevent soil depletion. Try planting something totally different
when you have cleared a row. Planting herbs and marigolds in with
the vegetables will confuse insects and help control them as well.
Keep the area harvested to make room
for planting more veggies and to help prevent pests and disease.
Remember not to plant too much of one crop at a time and rotate
vegetables you plant so you don’t become overwhelmed. Try planting
different varieties of the same crop, your family will enjoy tasting
the differences in variety, size and sweetness.
Vegetable gardens need full sun, so
arrange from north to south to make the best use of
light. Plant tall crops to the north and short crops to the south.
If you have clay or sandy soil add plenty of organic soil amendment.
Plant raised beds if the soil is hard or has poor drainage. Most
vegetables need an inch or more water a week. Installing a drip
system is the best way to ensure proper watering in our area. By
putting the water where the roots are you will use about 50 percent
less water.
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