COMPONENT PARTS OF GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

• Gutters and downspouts are constructed of many separate parts and pieces. Fig. 1 illustrates the basic parts used in a typical installation. Metal guttering pieces are usually fastened together with sheet metal screws or pop rivets.
  
  
• The basic gutter pieces are commonly offered in standard 10' lengths and are usually made of aluminum, plastic or galvanized metal. These are the basic gutter materials used for most gutter and downspout installations.
  
  
• Spikes and ferrules hold the gutter to the wall of the house. The ferrule is inserted inside the gutter and the spike is driven through the rim of the gutter and through the ferrule to hold the gutter in place.
  
  
• The slip connector is used to connect two pieces of guttering in the run. The connecting joint is sealed with mastic or caulk to prevent leakage. Some brands of downspouts and gutters slip snugly together and need no mastic or caulk.
  
  
• The strap hanger is attached under the shingles or other roofing material and then to the outside edge of the gutter, providing support for the run.
  
  
• The end piece is available with an outlet for the downspout or for simply ending a gutter run.
  
  
• The end cap ends the run of guttering and is available for left- or right-hand use. Some styles must be sealed with either caulk or mastic.
  
  
• The downspout takes the water out of the gutter and down to the drainage pipe or splash block on the ground. It is attached to the gutter at the outlet in the end piece.
  
  
• The conductor pipe band, or clincher, is a strap used to hold the downspout in place. It is nailed or screwed to the outside wall to hold the downspout securely wherever necessary. This piece is available in various styles and types.
  
  
• Ball strainers can be inserted in the end piece to prevent leaves and other bulky material from clogging the downspout or drainage pipes. Several other types of gutter covers are available as well (Fig. 2). While not absolutely necessary, strainers and gutter covers can be helpful.
  
  
• In some cases, strap hangers are the wraparound type. The style of strap hanger you use is more a matter of choice or manufacturer's design than of function. The strap hangers shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 both serve the same purpose–to hold the gutter in place.
  
  
• An inside miter is used when it becomes necessary to make an inside turn in a gutter.
  
  
• You can make outside turns in the guttering system by inserting an outside miter as illustrated in Fig. 2. Use mastic or caulk for sealing the joint where either inside or outside miters are jointed to the gutter.
  
  
• Some downspouts and elbows are round instead of square.
  
  
• It sometimes becomes necessary to make turns in downspouts. When a turn is required to pull the downspout toward or away from the house, use square elbows (A, Fig. 3). Two of these elbows used together, as illustrated, make an offset of several inches in the downspout. The crimp in downspouts and elbows usually makes mastic or caulk unnecessary at the joints.
  
  
• To make a turn in the downspout either to the left or right, use the square elbows shown in B, Fig. 3. Two of these elbows mounted together divert the direction of the downspout to the left or right by several inches.
  
  
• A square shoe is used at the bottom of the downspout. This turns the flow of water onto a splash block where the downspout ends.

INSTALLING GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS

• The most commonly used gutters and downspouts are made of galvanized metal, aluminum or plastic. Various component parts described in step 1 are required to complete the job.
  
  
• Strips of guttering usually come in 10' lengths. First, measure the area where the guttering is to be installed and determine exactly how many feet of guttering and how many of the basic component parts you need.
  
  
• Fig. 4 provides a checklist for determining the materials you'll need for the job. Measure the house carefully, then note on the checklist exactly how many of the various parts you need for your gutter and downspout installation.
  
  
• Write these figures in the column to the extreme right. Bring this checklist to your local retailer for help with the materials and estimates.
  
  
• Once you've purchased the materials, lay out the pieces of gutter and fittings on the ground below where they are to be installed. Align them to correspond to the way they will fit when assembled under the eave of the roof.

• Use a long level to get the correct slope for each run of gutter (Fig. 5). Use a slope of about 1" for each 16' of gutter for proper drainage–good drainage is important.
  
  
• One easy way to accurately set the slope for proper drainage is to allow for a fall of 1-1/4" for each two 10' lengths of guttering material.
  
  
• Calculate the slope by marking the nailing position on the fascia of the house before attaching the gutter. Then check the fall with a level for accuracy.
  
  
• Fig. 6 illustrates a simple way to calculate the correct rate of fall in a run of gutter.
  
  
• Locate the center of each gutter span. Mark this center location on the fascia of the house (Fig. 6).
  
  
• Snap a chalk line from the center position as marked to the end of the run in each direction (Fig. 6). Allow for 1" of fall each way. For most homes, this fall of 1" in each direction from the center provides adequate drainage. If the run is extremely long, allow 1" fall for each 16' of gutter.
  
  
• Start the installation by attaching the gutter at the end or corner of the house. If this is the end of the gutter run, attach the left- or right-hand end cap to the end of the gutter. If sealing is required, seal the end cap into place before hanging.
  
  
• If you start at a corner, attach the inside or outside miter to the first length of gutter before hanging.
  
  
• Study the details of Fig. 7. This illustration shows how to attach a gutter to the fascia.
  
  
• If you are installing gutters on a new house, mount the molding as illustrated. If you are replacing existing gutter and downspouts, you may need to remove the lower molding before putting the gutter in place. The original molding can be remounted or new molding can be installed after the gutter is put in place.
  
  
• Attach the gutter to the fascia by using spikes and ferrules, strap hangers and fascia brackets as illustrated and described in Fig. 4.
  
  
• Insert an end piece with an outlet at any point where a downspout is required. Downspouts are usually located at the end of a building or in a corner.
  
  
• For extremely long runs, downspouts may be located in the center of a gutter run.
  
  
• If spikes and ferrules are used, space them about every 2-1/2' in the gutter run. Use the same spacing to attach the gutter with plain or wraparound strap hangers.
  
  
• Locate strap hangers directly over roof rafters wherever possible for a stronger support.
  
  
• Always insert the strap hanger under the roofing material and attach it securely to the roofing deck (Fig. 7).
  
  
• After the first length of gutter is in place, continue assembling the component parts with slip connectors at each joint and inside or outside mitres as required.
  
  
• Insert two style A elbows to bring the downspouts from the outlet on the gutter back flush with the wall (Fig. 8).
  
  
• You can insert a strainer in each downspout opening to prevent clogging from leaves, limbs and other objects falling from nearby trees. These objects can get into your underground drainage system and cause a great deal of trouble.
  
  
• Use connector pipe bands, sometimes called clincher bands, to connect the downspouts to the wall as required. There are several styles of these holding devices.
  
  
• If the downspout does not run into an underground tile system, place a shoe at the bottom of each downspout to throw the water out onto a splash block.
  
  
• Often, caulk or mastic is necessary to seal the connecting joints of guttering.